asian woman pose with soldiers at DMZ third tunnel south korea a girl named clara
Travel

Kpop Dance, DMZ, and An Evening with a North Korean Defector

Annyeonghaseyo, I just returned from South Korea! Let me take you to a Kpop dance class, DMZ day trip, and a sharing session with a North Korean defector ✨ ✨ ✨

Actually, I didn’t plan to visit South Korea, as I’ve seen so many friends post about their Korea trip (too much exposure).

However, last year I hit an affiliate sales goal with One Life Adventures. So, on top of getting commissions, they gave me one free trip and I chose South Korea πŸ˜„ πŸ˜„ πŸ˜„

Thank you, One Life Adventures! πŸŽ‰ πŸŽ‰ πŸŽ‰

Alright, now back to the blog post! For my first Korea blog post, I want to share with you my favourite activities from the tour:

  • Kpop dance class with a professional local dance instructor and choreographer
  • Day trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), the border of South and North Korea
  • Sharing + Q&A session with a North Korean defector

Kpop Dance Class in Seoul with One Life Adventures

The group woke up early and had a light breakfast before heading to the dance studio. Some of us were excited, especially those who love Kpop, K-Pop Demon Hunters, and Korean dramas.

As for me, I was excited because I love dancing. Learning from a new dance instructor and at a different place from my usual gym always excites me.

I came prepared with my Nike Vomero 5 shoes, which were very comfortable for walking and dancing.

Of course, it was also exciting because I could dance with my new friends. This One Life Adventures’ South Korea tour gave me 19 new friends from around the world 😊

travelers walking in a group morning seoul a girl named clara
One bus ride and a little bit of morning walk to the studio
most harmony dance studio seoul building a girl named clara
We’re here!
most harmony kpop dance class one life adventures a girl named clara
travelers watching video shown by dance instructor kpop dance class one life adventures a girl named clara

Before we started the class, the dance instructor showed us some choreography videos and let us choose which one we wanted to do.

We chose the choreography with “Golden”, a popular song from the movie K-Pop Demon Hunters.

The Kpop dance class lasted for around 1.5 – 2 hours, so we had enough time to learn the movements step by step.

Of course, since this Kpop dance class was just for fun, the movements were tailored for beginners.

However, there were many different movements and the tempo was fast; it was similar to Les Mills’ Bodyjam or a hip-hop dance class.

women smiling hugging after kpop dance class seoul a girl named clara
Thank you for the class!
group photo kpop dance class one life adventures a girl named clara
We’re done hiding, now we’re shining like we’re born to be ⭐⭐⭐

In my opinion, Kpop dance for beginners is still challenging for those who aren’t used to joining dance classes (if this is you, you can start with Zumba πŸ˜‰).

But that’s okay! The most important thing is to enjoy the class and have fun, like we did 😊 πŸ’ƒ πŸ•Ί

Also read: “Solo Trip to Jagir Waterfall and Alas Purwo, Banyuwangi”
Also read: “Solo Trip to the Mystical Djawatan and Antaboga, Banyuwangi”

Exploring the Red Road in Hongdae

girl in front of pink train red road hongdae a girl named clara

After the Kpop dance class, our local tour leader, Cheong An, took us to the Red Road in Hongdae. The area was so vibrant and full of cafes, restaurants, and street performers.

We had about 1.5 hours for lunch and exploring the area before meeting up for the next activity, the HiKR Ground.

During my free time, I prefer to wander alone because I like taking photos, eating whatever I want, and enjoying the surroundings without talking to anyone.

Weird, huh? But I like it, hehe! πŸ˜„ πŸ“Έ ✨

Okay, what’s for lunch? At first, I wanted to try the tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) place that Cheong An recommended.

popular tteokbokki restaurant in hongdae a girl named clara
The nice tteokbokki place on the Red Road, Hongdae
tteokbokki menu hongdae a girl named clara
20,000 KRW = around RM60

Rice cakes for 20,000 KRW? I’d rather eat Korean fried chicken or BBQ… But oh, yesterday I spent too much on skincare products, I have to cut my budget πŸ˜…

So, I decided to have instant jajangmyeon (savoury noodle with black bean paste) from a convenient store.

recycling zone at convenient store south korea a girl named clara
South Korea is serious in recycling

Afterwards… I clicked on the wrong Naver map link and got lost. Instead of walking to the meeting point, I went to the opposite side! πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚

I didn’t want to stall the group, so, I told Cheong An to continue the tour without me. Besides, I’m not a Kpop fan, so I’m not really interested with HiKR Ground.

group of men sitting in bus station hikr ground a girl named clara
Left to right: Ruben, Adam, Dominic and Amal in HiKR Ground
women have fun eating game hikr ground a girl named clara
This game reminds me of Bishi Bashi Playstation game, haha…
woman happy on skateboard hikr ground a girl named clara
Natalie on a skateboard. They’re having fun in HiKR Ground!

I continued the day exploring Hongdae’s Red Road, took some photos, had bingsu at the famous cafe – Sulbing, and returned to the hostel in the evening.

Okay, let the photos show you what the Red Road, Hongdae looks likeπŸ˜Šβ€οΈπŸ“Έ

red road hongdae map a girl named clara
tree with different colors autumn hongdae red road a girl named clara
busy street full of people hongdae red road a girl named clara
pig bank restaurant pork dish hongdae red road a girl named clara

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woman with luggage crossing the road hongdae red road a girl named clara
nike vomero 5 junior in hongdae red road a girl named clara
Nike Vomero 5, Love Edition
yellow tree autumn hongdae red road a girl named clara
happy girl posing like a cat red road hongdae a girl named clara
man singing street performer hongdae red road a girl named clara
long queue public toilet hongdae red road a girl named clara
Always a long queue in front of the ladies’ public toilet…
soap in public toilet korea awkward a girl named clara
The soap… Am I the only one with wild thoughts? 🀣 🀣 🀣
restaurant with frankenstein statue hongdae red road a girl named clara
Halloween is coming!
inside sulbing hongdae branch a girl named clara
Sulbing is a famous bingsu cafe in South Korea
injulmi bingsu sulbing a girl named clara
Injeolmi bingsu (bingsu = shaved ice)

On the way back to the hostel in Myeongdong, I saw a peaceful demonstration. Many locals were walking and chanting, bringing flags and signage, guarded by policemen.

I wondered why they supported Trump and disliked China… Like, what’s the connection with South Korea? So I asked Cheong An, and he said he would explain it to me tomorrow.

policemen and demonstration in myeongdong a girl named clara
Demonstration in Myeongdong a few days before APEC 2025…
truck and people carrying south korea usa flag demonstration myeongdong a girl named clara
demonstration in myeongdong a girl named clara

After I reached the hostel, I took a nice, long shower and hit the bed at around 9pm. Time for beauty sleep, tomorrow we have to leave for the DMZ day trip at 6:45 am! πŸ˜΄πŸ’€πŸ›Œ

Also read: “Blue Fire Kawah Ijen Hiking Tips, Banyuwangi”
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DMZ Day Trip from Seoul: Learning History On the Spot

girl posing in front of dmz ticketing building a girl named clara
Posing in front of the DMZ ticketing center

Rise and shine! I woke up early for the DMZ day trip and planned to find a light breakfast at nearby bakeries (bakeries in South Korea open very early).

However, when I went to the breakfast area to fill my water bottle, I saw a hostel staff member preparing the breakfast table (it starts at 7am).

So, I tried my luck and asked her if the boiled eggs were ready and if I could have them for breakfast before I departed at 6:45am for the DMZ tour.

boiled eggs breakfast step inn myeongdong a girl named clara
In South Korea, many hostels provide eggs for breakfast

And she said yes! Hooraaay!! πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‰

I knew it would be a long day, so I had four boiled eggs and some tomatoes for breakfast. Eggs are high in protein and can keep me full for a long time 😊

Double luck, the operator booked the wrong bus for us, so we got a very nice, VIP tour bus from Seoul to the DMZ 😍 😍 😍

tour leader and group tour ready to enter bus to DMZ a girl named clara
korean man smiling happy with a drink on hand a girl named clara
Our fantastic local tour leader, Cheong An
girl with short hair selfie in VIP bus to DMZ a girl named clara
When the bus seats are so big and comfy you’re ready to resume your sleep
huge windows vip bus from seoul to dmz a girl named clara
When the windows are huge you’re wondering if it’s a bus or train

In the bus, Cheong An explained to us what happened between North and South Korea. In 1592, Japan invaded Korea. After Japan lost in WWII, the US and the Soviet Union divided Korea into two: North and South.

What was supposed to be a temporary condition turned permanent because South Korea disagreed with communism.

In 1950, North Korea invaded South Korea and started the Korean War. North Korea received support from the Soviet Union and China through funding, soldiers, and military equipment.

Meanwhile, South Korea was (and is) supported by the US. Now we know the reason behind the peaceful demonstration in Myeongdong!

tour leader briefing travelers in bus a girl named clara

Since then, many things happened until 2016 β€” military threats, propaganda, North Korea sent spies to South Korea, some secret tunnels dug by North Korea to infiltrate South Korea were founded, etc…

Actually, up until now, the Korean War hasn’t ended; it’s on a ceasefire. The two countries constantly compete and “attack” each other, such as:

  • Competing over whose national flag is higher (both flags facing each other at the border)
  • South Korea uses megaphones and big screens to play K-pop songs and Korean dramas, so the North Korean farmers who are working in the field near the border can hear them – but then cut the songs/dramas halfway >> igniting curiosity, luring them to flee to the South πŸ˜† πŸ˜† πŸ˜†
  • North Korea, pissed off, sends mini air balloons carrying dirt to South Korea

By the way, in the Demilitarized Zone aka DMZ, visitors can’t take photos in certain areas. So, I can’t show you many photos… but I’ll try my best to describe them, okay! πŸ˜‰

We reached the DMZ ticketing area at 8am. Cheong An quickly queued at the ticket counter, although it would only open at 9am.

tour bus and group tour in front of dmz building a girl named clara
asian girl standing in front of dmz building a girl named clara
people queueing for dmz ticket a girl named clara
Tour guides queueing for the DMZ tickets
waiting lounge and painting gallery dmz a girl named clara
Waiting lounge cum painting gallery
amusement park near dmz korea a girl named clara
Is this abandoned amusement park a propaganda tool to lure North Koreans?

As for us, we had a relaxing breakfast, wandered around the area, and took some photos. The DMZ ticketing building had comfortable waiting lounges and many restaurants, shops, and cafes.

But most importantly, there were some statues, monuments, and historical sites nearby, so visitors could get more information about the Korean War and DMZ.

man setting up table and chair for customer by the street dmz cafe a girl named clara
snack menu at dmz cafe a girl named clara
In South Korea, the food and drink prices are stable…
food and drink menu at dmz eatery a girl named clara
…even at a highly touristic place, like the DMZ
cafes restaurants near dmz a girl named clara
dmz timeline history before discovery of tunnels a girl named clara
The discovery of the tunnels timeline
information about imjingak today dmz a girl named clara
peace bell temple dmz a girl named clara
The Peace Bell Temple
monument near dmz a girl named clara
unesco memory of the world monument dmz a girl named clara
UNESCO Memory of the World
woman walking at dmz with colorful autumn trees a girl named clara

After waiting for almost two hours, finally Cheong An got the tickets!

We gathered and took a DMZ bus (shared with other visitors) to visit the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel and Dora Observatory.

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DMZ Day Trip from Seoul: The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel

3rd infiltration tunnel dmz a girl named clara
Photo: Visit Korea

Once we reached the site, we had to keep our jackets and belongings in the locker. No phones and cameras allowed inside the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel.

Until now, South Korea has found four infiltration tunnels. However, the 3rd tunnel is the most popular for tourism because it’s only about 44 kilometers and a less than 1-hour drive from Seoul.

Before entering the tunnel, we had to wear helmets to protect our heads because it wasn’t very high. Luckily, I’m a shortie 🀭

illustration inside 3rd tunnel dmz a girl named clara

The whole journey took about 20-30 minutes, so it was challenging for my tall friends who had to bend down all the time.

Going forth was hard for our knees as the tunnel descended, while the return journey (hopefully) toned up our legs.

After walking for some time… okay, what’s with the traffic jam? What waited at the end of the tunnel??

illustration at the end of 3rd inflitration tunnel dmz a girl named clara

Apparently, at some point, the tunnel was closed, leaving only a tiny hole as big as a brick for us to peek into North Korea. This was the cause of the long queue – but it was worth it 😊

DMZ Day Trip from Seoul: Dora Observatory

tour guide explaining to group tour at dora observatory dmz a girl named clara
Cheong And, who speaks English well, suddenly becomes the tour guide for everyone lol

After the exciting 3rd Infiltration Tunnel experience, we took our belongings and went to Dora Observatory, which was just across the road.

From Dora Observatory, we could see specific parts of North Korea and if lucky, spot the locals! Hmm, I wonder if it’s the reason they named it “Dora”…

Dora, can you find North Koreans? πŸ”­ πŸ”­ πŸ”­

From the DMZ tour brochure that I found in my hostel, it said that the North Korean villages that were seen from the observatory were fake, to show the world that the North Korean people are well off.

south korea and north korea dmz zone miniature dora observatory dmz a girl named clara
people in observatory hall at dora observatory dmz a girl named clara
couple watching tv history dora observatory dmz a girl named clara

In reality, you can find news reporting many North Koreans are malnourished 😒

There are few things you can do in Dora Observatory:

  • Visit the main hall to see what North Korea looks like (mostly fields and only a few buildings)
  • Go to the rooftop and use a big telescope to see North Korea close-up (and spot the locals!)
  • Go to the cinema room and watch a short movie about the Korean War and DMZ
  • Grab some food and drinks from the cafe and cafeteria

I didn’t feel that hungry yet, so I decided to have a late lunch after the group returned. We reached our hostel in Myeongdong at around 4pm.

We had to gather again at 6pm for a sharing session with a North Korean defector, thus it was better not to eat a heavy late lunch.

I used this chance to eat all of the snacks that I’d been wanting to try from the Myeongdong night market πŸ˜‹ πŸ˜‹ πŸ˜‹

people walking night market myeongdong a girl named clara
Myeongdong night market
butter garlic prawn night market myeongdong a girl named clara
Garlic butter grilled prawns
korean garlic bread night market myeongdong a girl named clara
Korean butter garlic bread
girl selfie with butter garlic bun night market myeongdong a girl named clara
Instead of cream cheese and garlic, it’s mayonnaise and garlic
black sesame cream red bean bun patgodang a girl named clara
Black sesame cream red bean bun from Patgodang cafe 😍

Alright, it’s time for the most anticipated activity! Let’s gooo!!

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An Interesting Q&A Session with a North Korean Defector

woman taking photo of scenery from living room window a girl named clara

For this part, I intentionally didn’t insert any photos that show our faces – just in case.

All of us love travelling. If touch wood something happens and we’re detained by North Korean soldiers, there’ll be no digital traces of us having this sharing session with a defector…

…else we’ll be killed.

You can say what I’m writing here is a lie since there’s no proof, that’s up to you πŸ˜‰

Okay, first of all, I may sound bias, but what I like the most of One Life Adventures is their tour itineraries.

For their South Korea tours, besides Kpop dance class and DMZ visit, we had the chance to meet face to face with a North Korean defector and ask our burning questions.

The defector that each group tour meets varies, and it was the first time Cheong An met this guy. He couldn’t speak English, so Cheong An acted as an interpreter for us.

We didn’t know his name, so let’s call him oppa / hyung*

*Oppa – a term used for women to call a man who’s older than them and not a family member
**Hyung – a term used for men to call a man who’s older than them
and not a family member

beautiful living room studio a girl named clara
The tour company rents a beautiful place for the sharing session

Oppa started the session by sharing about himself and how he escaped North Korea. In short, one day, his family decided to escape in the middle of the night.

They went through many hardships, met other defectors, and finally reached China. Not everyone made it safe and alive.

Some were captured, some died, and some women were trafficked by the Chinese.

At that time, some attractive North Korean women were forced to join Kippumjo (the Pleasure Squad) to entertain the high-ranking officers and visitors.

Those who voluntarily joined Kippumjo did it to save themselves and their families. It’s rumored that the relatives of the Kippumjo members are taken care of well β€” no more hunger, oppression, etc.

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Okay, back to the defectors. Since the Chinese government had a close relationship with North Korea, defectors had to stay low and hide whenever they saw policemen.

They didn’t speak the language, but managed to survive by doing odd jobs. Many locals treated North Korean defectors poorly, threatening that they would report them to the police if they didn’t comply.

Oppa’s father worked very hard and long hours every day, but his employer didn’t pay him for months. His father insisted on getting paid, so the despicable guy reported him to the police.

Oppa’s mother received the news from kind neighbours that her husband was caught by policemen at work and urged the family to run.

His father was then sent back to North Korea and detained in a concentration camp, where he was severely tortured and had to do grueling labor.

But he hired a broker, managed to escape North Korea (again!), and reunited with his family.

One day, Oppa’s father saw an ad in a Korean newspaper that South Korea offered help for North Korea defectors to move to South Korea, so he responded to the ad.

Luckily, Oppa’s family was selected to get the support! The Korean intelligence agency provided the whole family with fake South Korean passports and arranged a flight from Beijing to Seoul πŸŽ‰ πŸŽ‰ 🀧 🀧

Alright, now let’s move to the Q&A session! 😊

vintage living room interior design a girl named clara

Q: How did you survive in China when you didn’t even speak the language?

Oppa: “I slept in abandoned houses and ate leftover food from the trash can. But I was happy because there was so much food. Food that I hadn’t eaten before in North Korea… and they were delicious.”

Q: What were the things that surprised you when you first arrived in South Korea?

Oppa: “In North Korea, everything became dark in the evening. Here, even at night, the road is very bright thanks to the lights, buildings, etc…

But what shocked me the most was the dating culture.

North Korea was very traditional. When I came to South Korea at 15 years old, I saw a couple kissed in school. That left me gobsmacked for four days.” πŸ˜† πŸ˜† πŸ˜†

Q: How was your school life in South Korea?

Oppa: “At first, it was hard to mingle because I didn’t understand what my friends were saying. There was a girl who approached me and tried to talk to me, but I couldn’t clicked with her.

She asked me three questions. The last question, she asked me, ‘Do you know Gandhi?’

Which I answered, ‘Gandhi? Does he know me?’

After that, she doesn’t talk to me anymore 🀣 🀣 🀣 I thought ‘Gandhi’ was someone’s name!”

Q: Is there anything that you don’t like in South Korea?

Oppa: “Hmm… in the North, life is hard, so the way the men talk is very masculine. For example, if we want to eat, we say, ‘Let’s eat!’.

In the South, the guys are like, ‘Do you want to eat? Let’s eat~~’

Q: I saw on TV and the news that North Koreans cry whenever they see their ruler. Is that real?

Oppa: “That’s a MASTERCLASS ACTING. If we don’t cry, we will be punished!

There was a time when I was at school in North Korea. During a ceremony, I didn’t cry when I saw the leader’s photo. Then the teacher beat me up.” (then he cried πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚)

Q: North Koreans believe that their leader is a god. Do you guys ever think that he poop?

Oppa: πŸ‘€ πŸ‘€ πŸ‘€

“WOW. I never thought I would get this question, lol… Once we grow up, we know that it’s bulls**t. So yeah.”

Q: Knowing that the propaganda is misleading, what do the North Korean parents teach their kids at home?

Oppa: “They tell the kids exactly what the government wants them to do. Kids are curious, so it’s dangerous if they ask questions that oppose the leader, as it could cause the whole family to be executed.

But when they grow up, they’ll know that it’s not true. We just don’t talk about it out loud even at home, fearing spies or tappers.”

girl posing with north korean defector a girl named clara
Thank you for sharing your story, Oppa!

Alright guys, those are some interesting questions that I remembered. Actually, the sharing session with Oppa lasted for almost 1.5 – 2hours because we had so many questions 😊

By the way, he’s a famous YouTuber! If you’re curious, you can check out his YouTube channel, but it’s in Korean.

Afterwards, we invited Oppa to join us for dinner, but he couldn’t come. We had a nice chicken dakgalbi dinner that day πŸ˜‹

tourist in front of jangin dakgalbi a girl named clara
man cooking dakgalbi at jangin dakgalbi a girl named clara
medium spicy cheese chicken dakgalbi jangin dakgalbi a girl named clara
Tteokbokki, kimchi, cabbage, chicken, and melting cheese

Pheww, what a long blog post! Thank you for reading my Korea travel diary! I hope you enjoy the Kpop dance class, short trip to the DMZ, and the sharing session with a North Korean defector.

Kamsahamnida, have a wonderful week ahead! β˜€οΈ β˜€οΈ β˜€οΈ

πŸŽ‰ 10% OFF KOREA TOURS & MORE! πŸŽ‰
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