Hi, everyone! It’s very hot in Malaysia these few days, so I’d like to reminisce about my India trip during winter. This time, I’ll show you what a sleeper train in India looks like, from Delhi to Bikaner.
Soo… I went to India in January 2024. It was a chilly evening when the group tour had to take a sleeper train from Delhi to Bikaner.
Speaking of trains in India, the scenes I saw on the TV and online haunted me.
A crowd as packed as tuna in a can… with some people sitting on top of the train and others with half of their bodies out of the door… I had a lot of questions in my head.


Is the train clean? Does it smell bad? Will I see rats or cockroaches on the train?
And the most important question: Is there AC on the train???
But, since it was a sleeper train, I guessed it wouldn’t be that bad… right? Because the number of beds is fixed, the train wouldn’t be that packed.
Me: “Are we going to be in the first class?”
Anuj (my tour guide): “No, we’ll be in the second class.”
Me: π¬π¬π¬

When I heard that, I wasn’t anxious anymore but had switched to surrender modeπππ
Okay, it will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This is what I paid for, so no complaining!
One Night on the North Western Railway India Sleeper Train
As you can see from the video above, the India sleeper train from Delhi to Bikaner was actually okay! There was enough lighting, the train was clean, and the AC worked well.
The bed wasn’t too soft, which is good for your back. On each bed, there was something that looked like a flour sack. It turned out to be a bedsheet, a blanket, and a small towel.
You’ll get your own bed lamp and curtain too, for privacy. Think of it as sleeping in a small bunk bed in a hostel! ππ΄π
Luckily I’m small, so the size of the bed was okay. But if you’re standing above 175cm and are large, your feet will stick out of the bed and you may feel cramped.






Someone: “I see a cockroach!!”
Others: “Whereee??”
Me: checked my bed, no cockroach (pheew!)
Auke (my Dutch friend who’s 185cm): “Oh God… this will scar me for life!”
Me + others: πππ
Everyone: Good night…! π΄π΄π΄
It was already late when we finished taking photos and videos and prepared ourselves to sleep. Yaawn~
Also read: “Travel to India, Is It Safe? This is How I Feel”
Also read: “The Godfather Tour: Playing Mob Wife at Bar Vitelli & Taormina Trip”
What You Should Do Before Boarding a Sleeper Train in India, Delhi to Bikaner

Before we boarded the sleeper train, Anuj briefed us a little bit. There would be no lock and people could walk freely from one coach to another.
So, he suggested to keep our valuable belongings close to us when we slept. There were only a few rare cases when people lost their belongings, though, but just in case.
Armed with the information, I brushed my teeth and did my skincare routine in the hotel, before we departed. I also wore the clothing that I would wear on the next day.


π 15% OFF ALL TOURS! π
Click below and enter my discount code:
CLARA15
Click “Add Promo Code / Voucher” and enter CLARA15 when you checkout at onelifeadventures.com
This way, I didn’t have to do everything on the train, especially since I didn’t know what the train looked like.
For safety reasons, I kept my passport in a secret neck pouch and wore cargo pants with some pockets to keep my mobile phone.
Luckily my backpack was small, so I could hug it when sleeping, under the blanket. Check, check, check! β β β
Also read: “Baliem Valley Festival Budget Tour: Day 1”
Also read: “Baliem Valley Festival Budget Tour: Day 2”
Camp Rajputana, an Exotic Accommodation in Bikaner, India

Finally, we reached Bikaner! We were supposed to stay in a camp (glamping) but since it was very cold, we had proper rooms instead.
The hotel staff greeted us warmly, offering us hot masala tea and putting a fresh flower necklace around our neck. We even had our foreheads marked! Yaaay, selfie time! π€³π΅οΈβ€οΈ











Afterward, we had lunch and then headed to our room to rest. My room was on the second floor, but the staff helped me to bring my luggage to my room.
During my 14-day budget India tour, I didn’t share the room with anyone because I was the only solo female traveller. I kept counting my luck! πππ
My room at Camp Rajputana, Bikaner, was spacious. I had a sofa, two small chairs, a coffee table, and a queen or king-size bed.








π 15% OFF ALL TOURS! π
Click below and enter my discount code:
CLARA15
Click “Add Promo Code / Voucher” and enter CLARA15 when you checkout at onelifeadventures.com
The view from my window was also nice, I could see mountains and sunrise or sunset.
During my free time, I took many photos and selfies for my blog. I’m happy that I went to India during winter, otherwise, it would be scorching!
Also read: “Baliem Valley Festival Budget Tour: Day 3”
Also read: “Baliem Valley Festival Budget Tour: Visitting Obia Village on Day 4”
India Budget Tour: Jeep Safari and Camel Research Center in Bikaner

In the afternoon, we headed to a Camel Research Center with Jeep and had a dune safari. Me, Molly, Felicity, Auke, and Athi were in the same Jeep.
It was a VERY bumpy and exciting ride! So bumpy that once I floated from my seat πππ So, Molly had us locked arms to prevent me from flying out of the jeep πππ


At the Camel Research Center, we saw many camels. There weren’t many things to do there, we only observed the camels and listened to Anuj’s story about the center.
Each camel has its number, marked on their bodies.






We didn’t stay until sunset because we had to wait for a few hours. So, we decided to return to our accommodation and rest.
By the way, if you google ‘Camp Rajputana’, what you’ll see on the internet will be different from the photos in the blog post.
When I was writing this article, I double-checked this fact with Anuj, and he said the photos on the internet were “for media”. Hmm but how come the reality is very different?
Anyway, I enjoyed my stay in Bikaner, hehe!
Also read: “Japan Temple Stay: Daimyoo-in, Koyasan”
Also read: “Mount Fuji, Japanese Snacks, and Guesthouse Gaku Hakone”
Campfire Dinner and Show at Camp Rajputana, Bikaner
While waiting for dinner, we sat near the campfire to warm our bodies.
I held my clay glass tightly, waiting for the hot masala tea to cool down a little bit before sipping it. The weather got even more chilly after the sun disappeared.
The Indian dinner was simple yet tasty! We had chapatti, naan, rice, curry chicken, vegetables, and papadam.
Then, the woman who welcomed us when we arrived went on stage and performed some dances.


I didn’t stay out long after dinner because it was freezing. Alas, when I reached my room and was about to take a bath, I realised there was no hot water! π₯Άπ₯Άπ₯Ά
However, since I had a dune jeep ride and sat near a campfire, I had no choice but to also wash my hair because of the dust and smoke smell.
Actually, if you want to get rid of the smoke smell on your hair, you shouldn’t use warm water, otherwise the smell will stay. Ok, no need to think, just get it done fast!
When I got out of the bathroom, my whole body was shivering. If you want to join this 14-day budget India tour during winter, please take note all of the accommodations have no heater.
Thank God we only stayed one night in Bikaner… I had a good time, though! πππ
Alright, I hope you enjoy our short adventure taking a sleeper train from Delhi to Bikaner and exploring the city. Have an awesome week ahead! π»π»π»
π 15% OFF ALL TOURS! π
Click below and enter my discount code:
CLARA15
Click “Add Promo Code / Voucher” and enter CLARA15 when you checkout at onelifeadventures.com
Also read: “Cycling Tour and Cooking Demo in Udaipur, India”
Also read: “Why Couples Should Travel to Udaipur, Venice of the East”