Namaste, friends! Today, I’ll take you for a Gulmarg gondola ride, and then we’ll check into our wonderful resort, The Khbyer Himalayan Resort & Spa.
I was excited because after saving for one year, I could finally stay at Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, the main reason why I visitted Kashmir.
Yes, I like beautiful hotels and resorts! ✨ ✨ ✨
Oh ya, in this blog post, I will share about my Day 2 and Day 3 in Kashmir, as there’s nothing much to write. Especially Day 3, I was in the hotel most of the time 🥺 #soboring
So, after breakfast, I departed for Gulmarg, Kashmir. It’s a famous skiing destination, but no matter what the season, the area is always packed with local tourists.
It took around 1.5 hours from Srinagar to Gulmarg by car. In the middle of the journey, I told my driver, M, that I wanted to go to the toilet.
He stopped the car at a pashmina store and went inside to ask the owner’s permission. Afterward, I went to the toilet and when I was about to go out, I saw M and told him that I was done.
But the shop owner said something in Hindi and M replied, “Chai (tea).”
“Oh, okay,” I replied.
He meant that he wanted to drink tea. So I waited for him for around 10-15 minutes.
I stood outside the shop waiting for him, because if I stayed inside without buying anything, I felt bad.
Usually, for private trips with long journeys, I always tell the driver and guide that if they feel tired, they can stop for coffee, food, etc (and I pay for it).
However, it was a bit strange because it was just around 1 hour since we departed from the hotel.
I told myself, maybe it’s the culture in Kashmir, I should be understanding… Besides, the itinerary for that day wasn’t packed, only Gulmarg gondola ride.
But a part of me was a bit unhappy, because I felt he didn’t prioritize me. I had booked a really nice resort in Gulmarg, so I wanted to check in on time to enjoy the stay.
Oh, by the way, special thanks to the company where I’m currently working at for giving me a generous annual travel allowance!! 💛 💛 💛
Luckily, this time M closed the windows and turned on the AC. Another good thing was that he talked to the unofficial traffic warden to let him cut a very long queue (by name-dropping my resort) 😄
Wow, I didn’t know that Kashmir was also a very popular destination for Indians! To be precise, when I was there, I almost didn’t see foreign travellers. Maybe April was too early for them?
Alright, Gulmarg gondola, here we come!
Gulmarg Gondola: Should I Get a Tour Guide?
So, the plan for that day was to drop my luggage at the hotel, ride the Gulmarg gondola, then return to the hotel.
My driver, M, would return to Srinagar and stay there (it’s his hometown).
Suddenly, M told me that he had booked a tour guide to accompany me for the Gulmarg gondola.
Me: “Ok, thank you! Do you know the tour guide?” 😊
Him: “No.”
Me: “HAA??” 👀
Then I told him, I thought the guide was included in the tour package. He said it wasn’t.
I was skeptical because I didn’t know where he got this guide; he didn’t even know them! Moreover, Gulmarg was a hillside covered in snow, what if something happened to me?
To make it worse, my international roaming didn’t work in Kashmir.
If something happened, my body would be buried somewhere under the snow and my family wouldn’t find me… yada yada my imagination ran wild 😬 😬 😬
At first, I didn’t want a tour guide for Gulmarg gondola. It was just a gondola ride, right? I only had to queue, ride the gondola, take some photos, then return.
But then M told me the price was around RM50 (~12 USD), so I started to reconsider my decision. Then, someone knocked on the car window – it was the tour guide!
Zahid: “Hello, Ma’am. My name is Zahid, I will be your tour guide in Gulmarg. This is my tour guide license…,” his voice was trembling due to the cold weather and the shower rain.
Me: “Why don’t you get into the car, then we talk?”
Zahid looked like a nice person and a legit tour guide. He reintroduced himself and showed me his tour guide license.
He also spoke fluent English and was polite. Since the price was reasonable, I thought I might as well help the locals’ economy.
It was my 1st time in Gulmarg, Kashmir, maybe there were things that he could tell me… He could also help me take photos and videos, hehe! 📷 😄 🎥
If you plan to ride the Gulmarg gondola, you can book the tickets online in advance. My tour company helped me book them in advance, so I could get them.
I booked the Phase 1 and Phase 2 Gulmarg gondola ride. They said the Phase 2 route was longer and the view was better.
Okay, back to the main question: should you book a tour guide for Gulmarg Gondola?
YES.
Especially if you travel solo, you must book a tour guide… because they will help you cut the queue 🤣 🤣 🤣
When I dropped my suitcase at the Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa lobby, I asked Zahid if he could share his internet hotspot with me, and he said yes.
So I sent his photo and phone number to my mom, sister, M, and the tour company’s owner as a precaution. If they didn’t hear from me again, they could look for Zahid.
Afterward, M drove us to the Gulmarg gondola entrance and returned to Srinagar. Actually, it was within walking distance of my resort.
Alright guys, I always believe people shouldn’t cut queue. But for the Gulmarg gondola, I honestly felt so happy that I got a tour guide as he took the initiative to cut the queue for me.
If you see from my photos, the queue was very long. There weren’t enough gondolas compared to the number of visitors.
The ascending queue was fine, as I was sheltered and it was warm.
But the descending queue? Oh God. I was so thankful Zahid was there! 😁 😁 😁
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Gulmarg Gondola Ride on a Snowy, Rainy Day
Since it was still winter in Kashmir, I couldn’t see clearly because of the fog. There was nothing much to see from the Gulmarg gondola because the hills were barren.
However, during summer, Gulmarg will be covered with flowers and people said it’s beautiful. So, whether you want a snowy or flowery view, it’s your choice, hehe!
It was still raining and freezing when we reached the Phase 1 Gulmarg gondola.
Btw, only a part of Gulmarg was covered with a proper pathway. Combined with the rain and mud, I had to wash my trekking shoes once I reached the resort.
Don’t worry, you can rent boots from the ticketing counter. But I suggest wearing trekking shoes because sometimes you have to hike and step on slippery soil.
In addition, I noticed that the soles of the boots that were available for rent didn’t have the grip to prevent people from falling.
You can always wash your trekking shoes, but if you fall? It would be a bigger risk!
Okay, so I thought Phase 1 Gulmarg gondola was… just okay. Only this side was nice:
(photo)
I felt the area would be beautiful if they planted more trees and built a proper pathway.
They could also build better huts for the restaurants (there were around 2 restaurants), so people could eat, drink, and relax comfortably.
Since Gulmarg is a very popular destination among the locals and international travellers, I feel the government can also improve some facilities, such as:
- Replacing the old gondolas with the new ones
- Providing way more gondolas
- Building a bigger queueing shelter / longer canopy
So, should you take the Gulmarg gondola?
Yes, if you drop by Gulmarg – just for the experience.
Is the area safe?
Yes, it’s very safe. Many visitors and armies are patrolling around, so you’ll be fine.
Should you take the Gulmarg gondola just to experience snow?
No. If you want to experience snow but don’t have enough budget to go to Europe, I feel it’s better to visit China, Vietnam, or Turkey. The national parks in China have much better facilities.
Zahid told me that the Phase 2 Gulmarg gondola was closed due to bad weather. Too bad, but what to do?
Btw, the queue for the return gondola was super duper long! He said it would take around 2 hours until my turn.
OMG, 2 hours drenched in rain and in this freezing weather? 😱 🥶 ❄️
But luckily (again), Zahid saved the day. He led me to a different route, and suddenly, we were the 1st in line. Yes, we cut the queue again! 🤣 🤣 👏 👏
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A Wonderful Stay After Playing Snow: The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa
Alright friends, it’s not a must to stay in Gulmarg since it’s just 1.5 hours by car from Srinagar. However, if you want to, I highly recommend staying at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa.
It was a really nice resort, no — actually the best in Gulmarg.
After hours under the rain, freezing weather, and muddy soil, stepping into The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa felt like walking on sunshine.
The temperature inside the resort was warm, the place felt welcoming, the interior design was beautiful, and the staff was friendly.
A staff member welcomed me and took me to the cafe to enjoy my welcome drink, hot Kashmiri Kahwa. It was spiced and sweet green tea, a traditional drink in Kashmir.
So, while he was handling my check-in etc, I sat on a very comfortable chair, sipping my tea and enjoying the view.
Actually, I felt bad for entering such a nice resort all drenched and with dirty trekking shoes. Luckily, I cleaned my shoes up a bit, so they didn’t leave muddy marks as I was walking 😄
Dear staff, I saw it, okay? You were trying to hide that expression of this small girl walking in, all drenched from the Gulmarg gondola 😅 #sorry
But thank you so much, staff (I forgot his name), for upgrading my room! 🎉 🎉 🎉
Okay, he said he upgraded me to a room with a better view and closer to the lobby for my convenience. He also walked me to my room (my luggage was already inside!) and explained a bit of this and that.
Before he left, I gave him a tip. The bank note was folded and wet, stuck together like a glue, but the amount was quite big for the locals.
The next time I went to the lobby and saw him, he greeted me with a big smile, haha… You’re welcome, thank you too! 😄 🙏 🎉
After he left, I went to the public toilet in the lobby to wash my trekking shoes. I didn’t want to do it in my own toilet, hehe… 😛 But I kept the public toilet clean, don’t worry!
Afterward, I returned to my room and snapped some photos as memories, took a shower, and did a photoshoot.
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Exploring The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa
I wanted to eat lunch, but by the time the photo shoot was done, it was already around 5pm.
Actually, I really wanted to try the food at the Italian restaurant at the Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa. But the included dinner was at 7pm, so I just finished the complimentary butter cookies.
They were so yummy! There were 2 kinds of butter cookies served at this resort: savoury spiced and chocolate.
Did I tell you that there was an unlimited refill for the cookies? 😍 😍 😍
Oh ya, I did change my clothes into a swimsuit for the pool photoshoot.
Alas, it was still raining and foggy, so the beautiful Himalayas view that I dreamed of was covered by the fog.
I was very disappointed because that view was the reason why I went to Kashmir. I had even prepared what I would wear, including a new outer top 😞 😞 😞
It’s okay, Clara… Just enjoy your stay at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg.
Not every moment has to be documented. Be present.
At around 7pm, the indoor bonfire was lit. Apparently, the buffet dinner started at 7:30pm. Ahh… My stomach was already ‘singing’ 😅
It was really nice and warm when I put out my hand or stretched out my legs toward the bonfire. Kudos to The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, for placing an indoor bonfire! 👍 👍 👍
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International Buffet Dinner at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa
The buffet dinner at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa was amazing!
The resort served an international buffet dinner — there were Malaysian flat noodles, sushi, Western, Thai tomyum, Mediterranean salad, pasta, and of course, Indian food.
I didn’t try the sushi because the sushi rice looked very soft/overcooked. The local food at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa was perfect!! 💯 💯 💯
The chicken tikka was juicy, the street snacks were delicious, but what stood out was the garlic butter naan.
The garlic butter naan at this resort was unique; it was dry instead of buttery, like how other restaurants serve it.
It was nice, especially if you’re watching your calorie intake. When paired with other local dishes, many of which were curry-based, it would be less fattening.
However, I still prefer the usual garlic butter naan. Yes, I like them buttery and sinful, haha…
The Western food served at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa was also great. My favourites were the grilled butter fish with herbs and lemon + gooey warm chocolate brownies 😍 😍 😍
Oh, and expected of a 5-star hotel, the ventilation in the dining area was good, hehe!
Btw, during dinner, I noticed that the only international travellers there were me + an Asian couple. Maybe the Western travellers usually come in different months?
Also, there was an awkward moment when a waitress asked me,
Staff: “Miss, do you come alone to Kashmir?”
Me: “Yes.”
Staff: “WHY?”
Me: “Why not? I like travelling solo😊 Also because of last year’s shooting incident…”
Why do you travel alone? Why aren’t you married? Why don’t you have a boyfriend?
Ehh, if I were God, I would have the answers. Also, being in a relationship or getting married isn’t a life goal.
If it happens, then it happens.
But I understand that in Indian culture, they usually get married young. Maybe there weren’t many solo travellers in Kashmir.
After dinner, I walked around the resort for a while before returning to my room and sleeping 😴💤🌙
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The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa: Poolside Photoshoot with a Glimpse of the Himalayas
The next day, as I walked to the buffet area, I saw through the cafe’s windows that there was no rain and the sky looked clearer.
So I rushed to the swimming pool, which was located far, far away from the lobby and was 🤩 🤩 🤩 when I saw a clear view of the Himalayas. Moreover, there was sunlight!
YAAAAAY, SUNLIGHT!!
I rushed back to my room, changed into a bikini, packed my tripod etc. and dashed to the swimming pool.
Alas, when I returned, the sky was foggy again and I could only see a glimpse of the Himalayas. And the sunlight had gone 🥹 🥹 🥹
I like to do photo shoots to fulfil my unrealised childhood dream as a model, since I didn’t grow taller or have the physical traits to be one, hehe 😊
I wanted to take more zoom-in photos, but to cross to the other side of the pool, I had to pass a narrow and wet poolside.
Nope. I didn’t want to risk losing my new phone, in case it slipped into the swimming pool 😱
Yes, it was a new phone because my Canon EOS 500D suddenly died before my Kashmir trip 😭 😭 😭
Okay, at least there was a glimpse of the Himalayas… although not sure if you guys see it 😆 But the most important thing, luckily I did the photo shoot before breakfast.
Oh yes, stomach before breakfast is the best!! #flat 😂 😂 😂
Afterward, I changed my clothes, had a really nice buffet breakfast, and departed for Srinagar. Goodbye, the Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa! Thank you for the wonderful memory! 🥰 🥰 🥰
And once again, thank you boss, for providing a generous annual travel allowance for the employees. I used it well 💛 💛 💛
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City Mall, Lunch at Sulaiman by Sarovar Premiere Hotel, and the Tension with My Driver
Okay friends, here’s the last part of this blog post and the day I let M go as my driver. As always, he had stood by at the resort’s parking lot before the agreed time.
✅ Punctual
✅ Reliable
✅ Turning on the AC
Day 3 of my Kashmir trip was free and easy. When we reached Srinagar, I told him that I wasn’t hungry, so we could go to the City Mall right away.
M: “Not hungry? I’m VERY hungry,” he answered in an unpleasant tone.
Me: “Oh, do you want to stop somewhere and eat? I can wait.”
M: (I forget what he replied, but he didn’t stop to eat)
I kept quiet. I looked at my watch, and it was around 1pm.
I clearly told him yesterday to pick me up at 11:30 am. If 1pm was past his lunch time, he could bring some bread or tell me he wanted to stop by somewhere for lunch.
Also, his meals and shelters were included in my private tour package. So, what was the issue?
Why did he talk like that? I didn’t like it.
When he dropped me off at City Mall, he said he would pick me up at 2:30pm.
Me: “4pm,” I said.
M: “4pm???”
Me: “Yes. Thank you, see you at 4pm.”
He agreed with a miserable expression on his face. Hmph! Who cares?
The day before, I had asked the tour company if I could drop by City Mall, coz I’d feel super bored staying in the hotel room all day.
The tour owner said ‘yes’ and had informed him too. Why was he surprised?
Later on, I understood why he was surprised. It turned out the mall was very small and had nothing much to see!
Still, it was better to take my sweet time and walk around, rather than be glued to my phone the whole day in the hotel room. I even explored the market beside the mall.
At around 2:30pm, I started to feel hungry. There was a food court inside the mall, but I wasn’t sure about the hygiene. Many locals were eating there, though…
Then I remember there was a hotel in that mall, Sarovar Premier. Since the included buffet dinner at the hotel was around 7pm, I thought I would just order a soup.
The price may be a bit higher, but I could sit comfortably and use their WiFi to surf the internet.
Oh, they had kids’ menu! I ordered the Tomato Soup and Chicken Slider (chicken patty burger for kids), thinking the portion would be small. Besides, the total price would be within my budget.
When the food came, I was surprised because the portion was big. I even told the waiter that it was big for the kids’ menu, and he smiled.
The Chicken Slider was okay, but the tomato soup was really delicious. Plus the crispy, buttery baked croutons 😍 😍 😍
Btw, when I checked my phone, I noticed I had some missed calls from M and some WhatsApp messages from him.
M: “Hi Ma’am, I’m at the lobby.” (sent around 3pm)
I was confused. I told him to pick me up at 4pm… did he forget? Or was he trying to boss me around?
So I reminded him that my roaming didn’t work, was having lunch + using the restaurant’s WiFi, and I would meet him at 4pm.
When the bill came, I noticed that they had charged me almost double the price. Apparently, the waiter didn’t write the kids’ menu when taking my order.
In the end, they corrected the bill for me because I had a strong reason: the food name on the kids’ menu is different from the normal menu, which showed up on my bill.
For example, it was “Chicken Slider” (kids’ menu) vs. “xxx” (normal menu). Also, it was “Tomato Soup” (kids’ menu) vs. “Hot and Sour Soup” (normal menu).
Waitress: “When he keyed in ‘tomato soup’, the system filled it as ‘hot and sour soup’.
Me: “How come? They’re different names.”
Waitress: “It’s actually the same, just different names.”
Me: 😅 😅 😅
When I ordered my food, I clearly mentioned their names. If the price difference wasn’t big, I wouldn’t mind paying.
But I didn’t want to spend RM50 extra for someone’s blatant carelessness.
I’m sorry, waiter… please listen carefully next time. Or ask the hotel to fix the ordering system 😬
And then, on the way to the hotel, another thing happened. I was excited because I would stay on a houseboat the next day, so I asked M
Me: “Tomorrow on the houseboat, will there be other people besides me?” 😊
M: “NO! There’ll be only you!! One room, one person!”
Err… why did he shout?? Did he think I wanted to share my room?
Me: “Ooh… I thought it was like a hotel; there would be a few rooms on the boat. So it would be just me?” 😅
M: “NO! There are other rooms and other people!!” he shouted again.
Me: “THAT’S WHAT I MEANT!!”
Seriously, I couldn’t take it anymore. I only asked him questions and he shouted at me? Me, the client??
Then both of us went quiet until he dropped me off at the hotel. I even gave the butter cookies from The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, which I regretted so much until now.
I was so angry, I had to cool down before asking the tour owner to give me a new driver.
So, I checked into my room, made a cup of black tea, and started to think about how to relay the message.
I wanted a new driver, but I didn’t want to tell the tour owner all of the negative feedback I’d been holding on to until that day, because I didn’t want him to be punished or worse, terminated.
Some of you may think, ‘Oh, that was so nice of you, Clara…’
FYI, I wasn’t being nice. I did that to protect myself 😤 😤 😤
It was a precaution, in case he held a grudge against me after I let him go. I was a solo female traveller in his hometown — his territory.
What if, worst case, he sabotaged the tour or hurt me?
So, I used a valid and unrefutable reason to let him go: the language barrier.
It was a fact. The language barrier made M frustrated, thus created some misunderstandings between us.
Of course, I also told the owner that I was unhappy with the tour company. Who sold tour packages without a tour guide? 😤 😤
And giving an international client a driver who couldn’t understand basic English? 😤 😤 😤
To be fair, I really appreciated the tour owner for always replying to my messages quickly and taking action on my feedback right away.
Thank you so much, S! 🙏
So friends, if you plan to visit Kashmir and Ladakh, you shouldn’t have high expectations of the tour guides and drivers from the local tour companies (in terms of English proficiency).
Other than that, everything was fine.
When I was writing this blog post, I felt like gaslighting myself. I stayed at nice hotels, had abundant and delicious food, but I let my driver go on Day 3.
Was I being too harsh on him?
However, those were two different things.
It doesn’t change the fact that M was rude. There were also other things he did that I didn’t want from a driver, especially for a long, private journey.
I shouldn’t gaslight or guilt-trip myself for wanting to enjoy the trip I paid for and expecting my driver to have a good attitude.
Pheew, what a rollercoaster ride! Okay friends, that’s the end of our Day 2 and Day 3 in Kashmir!
Btw, I’ll be in Indonesia next week, so I won’t update this blog for some time, hehe 😊
Thank you for reading, I hope you enjoyed the Gulmarg gondola ride and our stay at the Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa ✨ ❤️ ❄️
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