kete kesu village traditional house details girl smiling from window toraja indonesia_agirlnamedclara
Travel

Toraja Trip: The Ancient Ke’te Kesu’ Village and Londa Tombstone

On my second day in Toraja, I visited lots of jaws-dropping destinations like Ke’te Kesu’, Londa, Baby Grave, a historical burial site and Christ the Redeemer statue.

But for this week, let me share with you about the ancient Ke’te Kesu’ village and Londa tombstone.

Your trip to Toraja will be a cultural one, so make sure you don’t miss the two!

Ke’te Kesu’: Family Bond, Pride and Hanging Graves

solo trip travel girl tongkonan toraja traditional house kete kesu sulawesi indonesia_agirlnamedclara

If you don’t have enough money to bury your loved ones… would you sleep in the same room with the corpses and act as if they’re still alive?

Making our loved ones happy is a joy to most of us. But for the locals in Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi, Indonesia, the happiest thing is to send the deceased to heaven – even if it costs them millions.

The people of Ke’te Kesu’ are Christians and Muslims but at the same time, they’re also holding to their ancestors’ belief, animism.

When a loved one dies, they believe they should slaughter a lot of animals so the animals’ spirits help to lift the soul to heaven.

close up tongkonan kete kesu toraja indonesia travel blue sky_agirlnamedclara
tedong saleko buffalo kerbau unik mahal toraja_agirlnamedclara
Tedong Saleko buffalo | Photo by: tirto.id

The locals would sacrifice buffaloes and pigs. However, buffaloes aren’t affordable. One normal, black buffalo costs up to 20 million rupiah (USD 1,400+).

The rare ones, like the albino or white with black spots (tedong saleko) could go up to a billion rupiah (USD 70,980+) each! The more buffaloes they slaughter, the faster the soul reaches heaven.

So, those who can’t afford the burial ceremony will have to wait for years until they have enough money. While waiting, they keep the corpse in the house and provide meals as if the person is still alive.

girl solo trip standing at kete kesu tongkonan entrance buffalo horns stack toraja indonesia_agirlnamedclara
Can you count how many buffalo this family has sacrificed?
tongkonan carving details design red toraja traditional burial house kete kesu indonesia_agirlnamedclara
The Tongkonan’s detail is marvellous!
man local tour guide climb tongkonan traditional burial house kete kesu toraja_agirlnamedclara
Mr.Hendrik, my tour guide, climbs the Tongkonan
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One of the giant burial houses in Ke’te Kesu, Toraja.
There are 8 relatives buried here, according to the photos displayed.

The unique, decorative houses in Ke’te Kesu’, Toraja are called Tongkonan. Only noble families are allowed to build Tongkonan.

Look at how many buffaloes they sacrificed! The horns are proudly displayed for others to see.

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interior inside tongkonan kete kesu toraja burial house indonesia_agirlnamedclara
Let’s see how it looks like inside a tongkonan!
inside tongkonan interior girl tourist blow fire kete kesu toraja_agirlnamedclara
Sorry for the blur photo. There are a few rooms inside.
Me pretending to blow the charcoal stove.
a view from tongkonan window local man sitting kete kesu toraja indonesia_agirlnamedclara
The window where I popped my head out from in the cover photo

In the Ke’te Kesu’ village, there’s an ancient burial site Bukit Buntu Ke’su. The cliff is about 700 years old, with caves, tau-tau (wooden dolls resembling the dead) and hanging graves.

girl leaning look hanging grave wood coffin cave kete kesu toraja trip_agirlnamedclara
girl smiling sit in front of tau tau wooden dolls trapped inside cave toraja kete kesu_agirlnamedclara
Many tau-tau inside… why are they locked up?
Don’t worry! They’re not spooky… in the afternoon.
buffalo shape wooden coffin skull kete kesu cave toraja indonesia_agirlnamedclara
A buffalo-shaped wooden coffin

Also read: “Safari in Kruger National Park, South Africa”
Also read: “Sake Tasting, Hida Beef, and Temple Stay in Takayama”

Exploring Londa, the Square Grave on Natural Cliffs

asian girl solo traveler stand in front of londa cave grave burial toraja trip indonesia_agirlnamedclara

Some say Londa is one of the creepiest burial sites. But I didn’t feel scared at all when I explored the ancient tombstone of Toraja, Indonesia.

As you can see, the burial holes are square and there are tau-tau wearing real clothes and accessories.

The appearance of each tau-tau will be similar to the dead ones when they were still alive (skin colour, eyeglasses, etc).

To understand more about Londa burial tradition, read this article.

close up shot of tau tau wooden dolls in sqare burial holes londa toraja trip sulawesi indonesia_agirlnamedclara
asian girl long hair smile sit beside tau tau wooden dolls toraja londa background_agirlnamedclara
local craftman carving tau tau wooden dolls in londa toraja trip_agirlnamedclara
londa natural cave burial house toraja sulawesi indonesia trip_agirlnamedclara

I hope Ke’te Kesu’ and Londa will intrigue you to visit Toraja, Indonesia! The best month to visit is August as it’s when the locals hold the famous burial ceremony.

Tourists from across the globe flock the place for the rare and amazing experience – especially to see the ‘walking dead’.

Oh, did I tell you that some shop owners and assistants can speak Spanish, Italian or German? Thanks to the tourists!

For more story about Toraja or Makassar trip, you can read below:

girl with backpack walking in a jungle londa toraja trip indonesia_agirlnamedclara
skull toraja burial cave grave sulawesi indonesia_agirlnamedclara
black mary jane shoes explore jungle autumn brown leaf toraja indonesia trip_agirlnamedclara
local driver and guide toraja tour kete kesu background visit indonesia_agirlnamedclara
Mr. Asri and Mr. Hendrik, my driver and tour guide for the Toraja trip

Ke’te Kesu’ Village and Londa Tombstone, Toraja really made my day! I was lucky there weren’t many people visitting Toraja in October – but I’d like to return in August, if possible!

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*GLOBAL TOURS: Get 15% off with code CLARA15 when you checkout at onelifeadventures.com
**INDONESIA TOURS: Get 10% off with code CLARA10 at pesonaindo.com and epic.pesonaindo.com

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